If you’ve ever watched a neighbour get solar fitted, it can look deceptively simple: scaffolding goes up, panels appear on the roof, and, somehow, your home starts generating electricity. But a proper solar PV installation in the UK is a tightly planned mix of roof work, electrical engineering, safety checks, and grid compliance.
In this guide, we’ll walk through how solar panels are installed, step by step, using the same order most reputable installers follow. We’ll cover what happens before installation day, what the team actually does on the roof and inside your home, how commissioning and paperwork work, and what timelines and costs typically look like for UK households.
Most of the “quality” of a solar installation is decided before anyone touches your roof. A good pre-install process reduces surprises, protects your tiles, and avoids delays with the grid.
We start with a survey to confirm your home is suitable and to spot any complications early. This is usually a mix of:
Roof condition and material: Concrete tiles, slate, plain tiles, metal sheets, each needs different mounting methods and care. Fragile or ageing roofs may need repairs first.
Roof orientation and pitch: South-facing is still the classic “best”, but east–west systems can perform extremely well for households that use electricity morning and late afternoon.
Shading assessment: Chimneys, nearby trees, dormers, or neighbouring buildings can reduce output. We’ll often propose optimisers or alternative panel layouts if shading is unavoidable.
Loft and internal routing: We check how we’ll run DC cables from the roof to the inverter location without messy surface trunking where possible.
Electrical checks: We look at your consumer unit, earthing arrangement, spare capacity for breakers, and whether any upgrades are sensible.
In the UK, a big part of “suitability” is also pragmatic: can we safely access the roof, can we scaffold it, and where can equipment go without being in the way day-to-day.
Once we’ve measured up, we design the system around your roof space and your household usage. This is where we decide:
Number and wattage of panels (system size in kWp)
Inverter type (string inverter, hybrid inverter if adding a battery)
Panel layout (rows/columns, setbacks from roof edges, avoiding roof vents)
Battery capacity (if included) and where it will live (often a garage/utility room)
Optional add-ons like a diverter for immersion heating or an EV charger
Paperwork in the UK can include:
A final proposal/quote with assumptions (scaffold, cable routes, roof type)
MCS-related documentation (most homeowners want an MCS-certified install for credibility and resale, and it’s often expected for export arrangements)
DNO notification/approval depending on your inverter size and connection type (we cover this later)
A quote isn’t just a price, it should clearly explain what’s included (and what would count as a variation). If it doesn’t mention scaffolding, isolators, or certification, we’d ask questions.
For most UK two-storey homes, scaffolding is the normal approach. It’s not glamourous, but it’s how we protect installers and your property.
Before the job:
Scaffold is erected (sometimes a day or two ahead), typically with edge protection.
We plan lift points and panel handling, panels are awkward more than they are heavy.
We confirm weather windows. High winds and heavy rain are genuine stop-work conditions for roof safety.
We also agree the “non-negotiables”: safe isolation, tidy work areas, and where we can and can’t store materials. This is your home, not a building site.
Answer a few quick questions, and we will send you a bespoke solar panel quote.
On installation day, most of the work follows a logical sequence: mark out the array, fit mounts, install panels, run cables, then connect and configure the electrics.
We begin by marking the array position on the roof, keeping to required setbacks and ensuring the rows sit straight. Then we install the mounting system.
For tiled roofs, the typical method is:
Lift selected tiles to access rafters.
Fix roof hooks (or similar brackets) into rafters at measured spacing.
Refit or replace tiles so everything sits properly without rocking or cracking.
Attach aluminium rails to the hooks, making a level, square frame.
This stage matters: poor mount alignment can lead to twisted rails, stress on tiles, rattles in wind, and harder panel fitting.
With rails in place, we lift panels onto the roof and clamp them to the rails.
We’ll:
Position panels according to the design (and any optimiser or microinverter locations).
Use mid-clamps and end-clamps tightened to manufacturer torque specs.
Ensure cable connectors are protected and not sitting in water traps.
Weatherproofing isn’t about smearing sealant everywhere (that’s usually a red flag). It’s about correct mechanical fit: tiles seated properly, flashings where needed, and penetrations done with purpose-made roof glands.
Solar panels generate DC electricity, which needs to be safely routed to the inverter.
We run DC cabling from the array to an entry point (often through the roof into the loft), then down to the inverter location.
Good cable management looks like:
UV-resistant cable outside and suitable clips/containment
No loose loops flapping under panels
No cables resting on sharp edges or hot surfaces
Clear labelling where required
We also aim for neat internal runs, because you’ll live with them. If trunking is unavoidable, we keep it straight and minimal.
Inside the home, we mount the inverter (and any ancillary kit) on a solid surface with sensible clearances for airflow.
A typical UK setup includes:
DC isolator (depending on equipment design, some systems integrate switching)
Inverter (string or hybrid)
AC isolator
Generation meter (in some configurations)
Connection into your consumer unit via a dedicated breaker, or via an isolator and suitable point of connection
This is also where earthing and surge protection considerations come in. We ensure the system meets relevant UK electrical standards and manufacturer requirements.
If your system includes a battery, installation usually adds:
A battery unit (often wall-mounted or floor-standing)
A hybrid inverter (or separate battery inverter)
Additional protection devices and communications cabling
We’ll choose a location with stable temperature and good access, garages and utility rooms are common.
If you’re adding an EV charger, we’ll confirm:
Supply capacity and cable route
Load management (especially if you have electric heating or limited supply headroom)
Whether the charger can integrate with solar surplus (useful, but not essential)
Done properly, battery and EV integration feels cohesive rather than bolted-on.
This is the part homeowners don’t always see, but it’s where the system is proven safe and functional. A solar PV system isn’t “finished” when the panels are on the roof, it’s finished when it’s tested, commissioned, and properly handed over.
We carry out electrical tests to verify the installation is safe and performing as expected. This commonly includes:
Continuity and polarity checks
Insulation resistance testing on DC and AC sides (as applicable)
Earth fault and RCD verification where relevant
Open-circuit voltage (Voc) and string current checks
Confirming isolators function correctly and are labelled
We’ll also check that the inverter starts correctly, doesn’t throw faults, and that protective settings are correct for UK grid operation.
Most modern inverters come with an app or web portal. We’ll typically:
Connect the inverter to Wi‑Fi or Ethernet (or a separate comms dongle)
Ensure you can see live generation, daily totals, and any battery behaviour
Show you the basics: what “normal” looks like on a sunny day vs a grey one
We also walk you through practical stuff:
Where the AC/DC isolators are
What to do if you need to shut the system down (rare, but good to know)
How export/charging behaviour works if you have a battery
This is where solar starts to feel real, people love seeing the first watts ticking up.
A professional handover includes a pack of documents. In the UK, you should expect things like:
Electrical Installation Certificate (EIC) (or equivalent certification depending on the scope)
Commissioning sheet and test results
System schematic and component datasheets
Warranties for panels, inverter, and battery (terms vary, panels are often long, inverters typically shorter)
Guidance for monitoring, shutdown/startup, and maintenance
Keep these somewhere safe. They’re useful for home sales, warranty claims, insurance queries, and future upgrades.
Answer a few quick questions, and we will send you a bespoke solar panel quote.
In the UK, your solar PV system connects to the public electricity network, so it has to play nicely with the grid. That’s where G98/G99 and your DNO come in.
These are engineering recommendations that govern how small-scale generators connect in Great Britain.
G98 generally covers smaller microgeneration systems that meet set limits and can be notified after installation (installation first, paperwork after), as long as the equipment is compliant.
G99 applies to larger or more complex connections that usually need DNO approval before installation/commissioning.
In plain English: if your system is “standard domestic size”, it’s often straightforward. If it’s larger, includes certain configurations, or your local network is constrained, the DNO may need to approve it upfront.
Because the exact threshold and requirements depend on your inverter rating and phase supply, we treat this as a design-stage item, not an afterthought.
Your Distribution Network Operator (DNO) is the company responsible for the local electricity network (not your energy supplier). For many homes, the process is routine, but delays can happen.
Common hold-ups include:
Network constraints (too much generation already on a local feeder)
Incomplete paperwork (missing inverter certificates, single-line diagrams, or site details)
Phase supply limitations (single-phase homes have different headroom than three-phase)
Timelines vary by region and workload. Some notifications are processed quickly: approvals for larger systems can take longer. The key is to build grid compliance into the project schedule so your “switch-on” date doesn’t drift.
Most homeowners want two answers: “How disruptive will this be?” and “What’s it going to set us back?” The honest answer is that solar is usually quick to install, but the prep and compliance steps can stretch the overall timeline.
A typical journey looks like this:
Survey to final design/quote: often within 1–2 weeks (sometimes faster)
Scaffolding: commonly installed 1–3 days before fitting
Installation on the day(s):
Many domestic systems are installed in 1 day
More complex jobs (battery, tricky access, larger arrays) can be 2–3 days
Commissioning and handover: usually same day as installation completion
DNO notification/approval: can be parallel to the above, but approvals (where required) may extend the schedule
From first enquiry to switch-on, many UK households land somewhere between a few weeks and a couple of months, depending on installer availability, scaffold scheduling, and DNO requirements.
Solar costs in the UK vary, but the biggest price drivers are consistent:
System size (kWp): more panels and higher-capacity inverters cost more, though the cost per panel often improves at larger sizes.
Battery storage: adds a significant chunk because you’re buying both hardware and more complex electrical integration.
Roof type and complexity: slate, awkward valleys, multiple aspects, and fragile tiles can increase labour and mounting costs.
Access and scaffolding: difficult access, conservatories, or three-storey properties typically increase scaffold needs.
Consumer unit or electrical upgrades: if your existing setup needs changes to accommodate a new circuit safely.
We’d treat unusually cheap quotes cautiously. The hidden costs usually show up later as corner-cutting: poor cable routes, minimal safety labelling, no proper handover, or avoidable roof damage.
If you’re comparing quotes, make sure you’re comparing like-for-like: panel model, inverter model, battery capacity (if any), scaffold included, monitoring included, certification included.
Once the system is running, solar PV is pleasingly low-maintenance. But “low-maintenance” isn’t “no-maintenance”, and it helps to know what normal looks like.
In week one, we usually see homeowners checking the app like it’s a fitness tracker. That’s normal.
A few things we expect:
Generation swings wildly with weather, a bright winter day can outperform a dull spring day.
Midday peaks are common, but your self-consumption depends on when you use power.
If you have a battery, you’ll notice it learning patterns (and you’ll probably tweak settings once or twice).
If the app shows zero generation on a sunny day, or repeated inverter faults, that’s when we stop “watching and waiting” and start investigating.
In most UK locations, rainfall does a decent job of keeping panels reasonably clean. We don’t recommend routine cleaning unless:
You’re near trees with heavy sap/pollen
You’re coastal with salt build-up
You have visible soiling (bird mess, construction dust) that’s clearly affecting output
For inspections:
A visual check from ground level a couple of times a year is sensible (look for slipped tiles, obvious debris, or damaged bird proofing if fitted).
Electrical equipment should remain well-ventilated and free of clutter.
Inverters are often the component most likely to need replacement first, simply because they do more “work” than passive panels. Many inverters run well for years, but it’s sensible to plan for inverter replacement at some point in the system’s lifetime.
Most issues are minor, but you’ll want to act quickly if something looks unsafe.
Common things we see:
Wi‑Fi monitoring dropouts (system still generating, app just can’t see it)
Inverter fault codes after a grid disturbance
Tripped breakers (rare, but can happen)
Unexpectedly low output due to shading changes (tree growth) or a failed optimiser
Call a qualified electrician/installer if:
You smell burning, hear crackling, or see discoloration around electrical equipment
The inverter repeatedly shuts down or shows persistent faults
You’ve had roof damage and suspect water ingress near cable entry points
One practical tip: keep your handover documents and inverter model details accessible. When you ring for support, those two bits of information save time.
Solar feels like a “roof job”, but the real story is the planning, electrical work, and compliance that sit behind it. When we install solar panels properly, we’re not just mounting hardware, we’re integrating a small power station into your home and the local grid.
If you’re considering solar PV, our best advice is to judge installers by their process: a thorough survey, a clear design, tidy cable routing, proper testing, and a handover pack you’d actually want to keep. Get those right, and the panels on the roof are the easy part, and the next 20–25 years of generation tend to look after themselves.
